As I stepped onto the crumbling sidewalk from the doorstep of my hotel on Calle Illampu, I lit a cigarette, pausing there for a few moments. I felt the crisp breeze brush against my face and hands, and although I wore a light jacket, I could feel a chill seeping through a few holes that dotted my haggard jeans. The smog that encompassed the city just yesterday afternoon had been absolved overnight, and for the first time since I'd been there, La Paz had a freshness reminiscent of mountain air. Curious to see what the morning had in store I glanced at the sky and I wouldn't have been surprised to learn that the natives had no words for "clouds". I might have thought then, from that featureless blue sky, that the day would be just as uneventful – but the heavens didn't always reveal the truth.

After I had polished the cigarette down to the filter I set off along the rolling cobbled street with my hands buried in my pockets. I turned right onto Calle Linares. The shabby buildings that sat on either side of me were seamlessly connected and hastily constructed; corrosion could be seen where the paint had chipped from the walls. Meters above, scores of electrical wiring streamed back and forth traversing the rusted tin rooftops resulting in a tangled mess.

Ahead of me, as I approached el mercado de las brujas, I saw short women costumed in colorful, pleated wool dresses and watched as they setup their hole-in-the-wall shops. When I became close enough to hear, I listened while they chatted to each other in melodious Spanish which was often followed by laughter. They spoke so fast that I couldn't understand what was said, but I welcomed their distinct dialect because it confirmed that I was in a strange new country known as Bolivia.

I had been to the Witches' Market yesterday but the tiny shops were so congested with tourists that I could only appreciate the oddities on display from a distance. I didn't get the chance to ask the sorceress what the dried llama fetuses or shriveled frogs were used for or what they represented to her culture. Nor did I recognize the faint aroma of exotic herbs that hung in the air like sweet perfume as it did now.

While a woman was still stocking the shelves, I hesitantly entered her shop, not quite knowing if I was yet welcome. I smiled as I crept through the door. She was older and the winkles that lined her brown face were more pronounced as she readily returned my expression. The charcoal hair the hung down to her lower back was tied in a ponytail and a rounded bowler hat sat on her head instead of a pointed witches' hat that one might have expected.

"Good morning," I said in Spanish, trying to imitate the local accent.

She nodded in response, keeping her smile.

Letting my eyes adjusted to the darkness, I began to discern a few outlines. The place was modest and musty with no lamps. Only a small amount of natural light penetrated through the open doorway. The ominous ambiance was enforced by the dead birds and animal skins that hung from the ceiling and walls. I treaded slowly upon an ornate rug that led to the back shelves and with every step a new smell embraced me while another accosted my senses.

I picked up an ancient liquor bottle that I assumed held a potion of some kind and examined it in the dim light. Fine specks of sparkling powder drifted aimlessly within the cloudy liquid. Noticing a larger floating object, I shook it a little, holding it close to my face. A snakes' head with two beady eyes stared back at me. I jumped, thrusting the bottle away.

"Jesus Christ," I muttered, nearly dropping it. While gently setting it back in its place my eyes were already exploring other areas of the overflowing wall. The shelf below contained large feathers, candles and toad talismans. In one corner were boxed herbs. I stooped down, blowing off the film of dust covering the wooden box. I read the long engraving set in gold and although I didn't understand all of what it said I hardly needed to be an expert in Spanish to fathom the phrase, "mejorar su vida sexual." As it was the only thing I discovered so far that served a realistic and useful purpose, I wondered why it was placed at the rear of the shop. Curious as to what the other potions and charms were used for, I turned around prepared to ask the old witch a question but she had vanished.